Thursday, September 9, 2010

Change in the season?

A couple of weeks ago my mail was backing some major lb's. To my surprise and delight, the weight was that of the fall issue of W. Thank you for not being 20 pages long...

The silhouettes for  fall 2010 reference a few different moments in fashion History; 1920's Weimar culture/ early 30's American glamour, post war 1950's and the early 1960's. As much as the looks vary over these time periods, the narrative is relevant; These were all moments off feminine strength in fashion history.

1920's in the Weimar republic was a flaunting time for sex and sin. Women had enormous power over the wallets of  night clubs visitors and thrill seeking roamers. The looks were radical and liberating as society emerged from the bourgeois.
exotic dancer, Anita Berber 1920


Donna Karan fall 2010
Fall 2010 Pucci.
expressing a similar perspective on daring sexuality.



1930's America; crashing economy brings rise to the escape of the beauty queens and classic design giants.  Jean Harlow,  Chanel, Schiaparelli,and Vionnet.




  
Jean Harlow

Escada fall 2010
Vogue Sept 1933, Augusta Bernard.




1950's Post war America: Star struck by faces like Judy Garland, Audrey Hepburn, Anna Magnani; Balenciaga is king, Marilyn Monroe is photographed by Ceil Beaton, Suzy Parker is Avedon's choice, sexual liberation brought by birth control pill. These were the bombshell years...
Vogue 1947 shot by Irving Penn.
 



1960's: man in orbit, pop art, subculture, underground music/ movies, relapse of the 1920's: graphic short hair, shorter than short skirts, modernity, moon clothes and mods. 

1960's Harper's Bazaar, Mainbouche.



Does the modern take on made moments indicate out lack of interpretation of present day strength? Maybe silhouettes are instinctual and move in cycles like evolution.





In 1963, Warhol described the future of now. Modern liberation allows everyone to do anything at anytime.  Fashion is a collage...and it's pretty great. 

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